Even before meeting him he had bugged the hell out of us all on qurank.com
"I turn my back for 5 minutes and these little Tinny (Mt. Tinbeerwah) kids are running around qurank and theCrag, posting like they're on red cordial and pixie sticks. Between posts from Sister Matt and Chester 2000, I'm finding it hard to catch some shut-eye.
We can blame JJ for encouraging them. "
It's true. I figured this precocious tweenager wasn't going to go away, so we had to take him in and show him the craft. Now he's my coach.
Within a few years Matt is working some of the hardest routes around. He is the only climber to seriously take on the Lee Cujes test piece "Bite the Hand that Feeds" Coolum's hardest and as yet unrepeated.
Sensational flexibility gained from previous years of gymnastics have given Matt a crazy range of moves.
His years of piano accordian training haven't shown any usefulness yet though. Mercifully.
Here's an example of what puts schoolboy Matt Schimke in the top handful of Queenslands sport climbers.
A wirey strength and explosive energy.
Here's the kooky thing about Matt: He has a savant like memory for beta.
He can tell you the sequence for any route that he has ever seen.
Not just his beta but the exact sequence that each individual climber has used for each route.
Spooky, I know.
I often say "Hey Matt how do I do this bit again?"
Thanks to Matt's Mum for all the yummy cookies.