Saturday, July 30, 2011

Sweet FA (First Ascent)

You've worn his kneepads.
You've read his forum.
You've done his training.
Now let's see him climb.

You know the rules: If you bolt a new route, it's your project. No questions.
However, if you leave the State it all gets a bit ambiguous.

William Monks bolted an extension to Friends in High Places, leading into brave new territory between Gasoline Rainbow and Cleared for Take Off.

Will made a public announcement opening the project on 29th July 2011.
By 10:00am on the 30th Lee had sent it.

The lower section is in common with sedate and slopy Friends in High Places 21

But the top goes nuts !

Along the way there's some spectacular scenery, big strong moves, razor sharp edges and the odd kneebar.

 Did I mention the kneebars?

That is one spooky top out.

Climbers, you know the feeling: You are a long way off the deck, your rope is coming from below the overhang, everything slopes the wrong way, and you are pumped spastic.

Lee displays his trophy. The faded red tape that once marked the route's ownership to Mr Monks.
Thanks Will, for a terrifying new addition to an already intimidating wish list at Coolum Cave.
Tentatively graded 26.

Photo: Sam Cujes

Senior climbing photographer and style director from jjobrienclimbing was there to get the story.



  1. The last shot of the climb - did this result in brown undies? Certainly a look of concern there

  2. No, I think Lee was OK. I may have squeezed a bit out though.