Sweet FA (First Ascent)

You've worn his kneepads.
You've read his forum.
You've done his training.
Now let's see him climb.

You know the rules: If you bolt a new route, it's your project. No questions.

However, if you leave the State it all gets a bit ambiguous.

William Monks bolted an extension to Friends in High Places, leading into brave new territory between Gasoline Rainbow and Cleared for Take Off.

Will made a public announcement opening the project on 29th July 2011.

By 10:00am on the 30th Lee had sent it.

The lower section is in common with sedate and slopy Friends in High Places 21

But the top goes nuts !

Along the way there's some spectacular scenery, big strong moves, razor sharp edges and the odd kneebar.

 Did I mention the kneebars?

That is one spooky top out.

Climbers, you know the feeling: You are a long way off the deck, your rope is coming from below the overhang, everything slopes the wrong way, and you are pumped spastic.

Lee displays his trophy. The faded red tape that once marked the route's ownership to Mr Monks.
Thanks Will, for a terrifying new addition to an already intimidating wish list at Coolum Cave.
Tentatively graded 26.

Photo: Sam Cujes

Senior climbing photographer and style director from jjobrienclimbing was there to get the story.

jj

Danny Friedman

Danny was always the guy on the other end of the phone.

Danny I need 200M of rope. Danny I need 50 harnesses. Danny I need 100 carabiners.

Danny works at K2, I manage a school camp.

So it was a delight to meet him and find out he's a really sweet guy and a motivated climber.

Now when I say sweet guy, it turns out he's got a creepy side.

Like you, I browse the net for comforting stories about kittens and sunshine.
Danny's guilty pleasure is immersing himself online in the ugly world of gruesome crime.
     I know, what a sicko! But it turns out he is a trained Forensic Scientist. OK, forgiven.

I feel sick, let's see some climbing.

Danny set off in 2009, climbing the modest grade of 21, to Turkey, Kaly and Ton Sai, picking up four grades along the way.

 

Then more Thailand, Castle Hill and Bluies. And before you can say deoxyribonucleic acid he is ticking "Spoonman" 28

Danny says his goal is to tick 8a by the end of his Euro Tour this year.

His friends say he is stronger than he thinks.

Senior climbing analysts here at jjobrienclimbing have reviewed the available data and can confidently predict he will better it by 2012.

 I don't want to make this sound like a dating profile but here's the twist:

He's a sweety, no doubt. He has a jones for Gummy Bears, but don't expect him to sit through a Rom Com with you.

He likes his films Noir, and his music on the dark side.

Danny is off to the Grampians tomorrow, presumably to leave his fingerprints all over Taipan Wall.
The investigation continues.

jj

Beta alert.

Look away if you ever plan on on-siting "Spoonman" at Coolum Cave.

Pay attention if you want to see a big Frenchman running out the crux.

That's all I have to say. Enjoy.

Need more Antoine? Click here.

jj